Welcome to the second instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we’ll walk through the process of removing the bulkhead from our 2020 Peugeot Expert. We’ll provide a step-by-step guide along with tips and tricks that will be helpful if you’re planning your own conversion. The process will be the same for all the other PSA group vans, including the Citroën Dispatch/Jumpy, Vauxhall/Opel Vivaro, and Renault Trafic. Tools used: Ratchet with 10mm socket Electric screwdriver (for floor removal) Step One: Removing the First Section The bulkhead on the Peugeot comes apart in two sections. The top section is easily accessed, while the lower half took a little more time, as the plywood flooring was blocking the last lower four bolts. We loosened the bolts with a 10mm socket. After that, they could be removed by hand. At this point the upper section of the bulkhead can be removed. Step Two: Removing Obstructive Flooring To reach the lower bolts, we had to remove the plywood floor. While this might not be necessary for all vans, we decided to do it since we'd need to lift the floor before adding insulation later on in our conversion. We found that the screws in the metal trim were only connected to the plywood flooring itself, while the screws in the wood were fastened to the van's floor. A few of the screws were rusted and required drilling to get out. The ply floor came out in two sections, making removal easier. There was one section of metal trim that had to be removed to separate the pieces. Note: Flooring can vary from van to van; some are glued down, which could affect your removal process. Step Three: Removing the Lower Section of the Bulkhead Once the floor has been removed, you will be able to easily reach the final four bolts. Remove the lower four bolts, and the final section will be released. What's Next? In the next instalment of our campervan conversion series, we’ll focus on insulating the floor of the van. Once the insulation is in place, we’ll move on to reinstalling the plywood floor and upgrading it with vinyl flooring. Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts Full Walkthrough Video:

Welcome to the 11th instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we'll be installing a 12v electrical system in our 2020 Peugeot Expert. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own project. Item List: Eco-Worthy 280Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery: Link Renogy 50a DCDC Charger: Link Wire: 6awg/12awg/22awg Isolator: Link Fuse Block: Link Midi Strip Fuse Holder: Link Fuses: Link Link Various-sized copper tubular lugs: Link Link Heat Shrink Wraps: Link Wire crimper and cable cutter, two sizes: Link Link Basic Layout: We begin at the starter battery, connecting the positive cable to the positive terminal. Then there's a fuse placed as close as possible to the battery. We'll be using 6-gauge wire and 60-amp fuses, as the total cable length will be under 6 metres. Next, the cable is routed through the cabin and into the back of the van. From there, it connects to an isolator switch, which allows you to disconnect the system when it’s not in use, allowing you to isolate the electrical system for safety or maintenance. The cable then runs into the 50-amp Renogy DC-DC charger. This is needed if you’re using a LiPo4 battery, as it prevents the battery from drawing too much power, which could damage your alternator. It also helps to prolong the lifespan of your leisure battery and ensures it charges fully. After the charger, a fuse is installed next to its positive output. It’s important to place a fuse after each major component. From there, the cable connects to the positive terminal of the leisure battery. It then enters another fuse before it joins the main fuse board. From the fuse board, the system distributes power to various appliances such as the fridge, plug sockets, and lights. The negative output from the charger goes directly to the battery, which is then connected to the negative terminal on the fuse board. Finally, the negative terminal of the fuse board is connected to the ground point, completing the circuit. See installation order below. Step One: Installing Components and Drilling Access Holes I started by screwing in the isolator switch, DC-DC charger, and fuse block, along with their relevant fuses. I made sure to leave enough space so the wires could easily reach from one component to the next. Once everything was installed, I moved on to drilling the holes so the cables could go to and from the leisure battery under the bed. Step Two: Connecting the Positive Cables I used the large cable cutter and wire crimper set to prepare the cables. Cutting the cables to length, placing shrink wrap over the end, then compressing the lugs. Finally, I used a lighter to shrink the wrap to cover the ends of the cables. I connected everything except the DC-DC charger and leisure battery, as the negatives/ground points need to be done first so the charger can establish a stable zero ground reference point. (I'll cover that later on in the post.) Tip: Having a selection of wire lugs from M4 to M10 will come in useful, as you'll have all options covered. Step Three: Installing the Main Power Cable We ran the positive line from the isolator switch along the back of the seats and under the step on the passenger side. From here, it went up to the glove box and passed through a rubber grommet into the engine bay. Tip: It's important to set the isolator switch to off when you connect the power cable so the rest of the system remains uncharged. We also taped the ignition sensor to the larger 6 AWG positive cable, as it will be following the same route to a fuse in the glove box. The ignition sensor is needed because the van is Euro 6 compliant and has a smart alternator that varies the voltage—we'll go into more detail later on. Running the cable under the passenger step can be done by removing the trim, but that requires unscrewing the seatbelt, which I didn't want to mess with. I removed a small piece of plastic so I could pull the wire under the step. Then I used a second cable, which I pulled through from the other side with a coat hanger, to pull the main one towards the glove box after taping them together. From the other side of the step, the power cable can pass up through the glove box and out through a grommet into the engine bay. This is where the power cable and ignition sensor part ways, with the ignition sensor ending in a fuse in the glovebox. The trim around the glovebox can be pulled away easily. Then there are 5 screws and one bolt to remove to gain access to the rubber grommet. The grommet can be pushed out from the front cab towards the engine. Then the cable can be pulled through from the engine bay and cut to the appropriate length. I installed a fuse onto the plastic cover over the fuse box in the engine bay. Then I cut and connected a shorter cable from the fuse to the battery. The van came with a quick-release connector on the positive terminal of the starter battery. This made connecting the power cable a little more difficult. We drilled a hole at the back of the positive quick release connector so we could attach the cable while still leaving enough room for the connector to sit all the way down on the terminal. Once everything was connected, I installed the 60 amp fuse, covered the cables with conduit, and secured everything in place with cable ties. Tip: It's much easier to push a cable through the conduit rather than trying to squeeze it over once it's already been installed. Step Three: Installing the Ignition Sensor The ignition sensor is needed if you have a smart alternator so that the DC-DC charger knows when the engine is on. I used a voltmeter to test the fuses in the fuse board in the glove box. I set the voltmeter to the 20v setting and placed the black probe on the metal of the van and the red probe on the pins on the fuse. Then, I used a piggyback adapter to connect the ignition sensor to a fuse that only receives power when the engine is on. With the sensor cable in place, I reinstalled the trim and used some conduit to protect the thinner wire in the places with sharp edges. Step Four: Installing the Ground and Finishing the Positive Cables I cut away some of the carpet on the wall of the van next to the fuse block and used a wire brush to expose the raw metal. Then I connected the negative from the DC-DC charger to the leisure battery. Then the negative from the leisure battery to the negative on the fuse block. And finally, the negative from the fuse block to the ground point. Then it was safe to connect the positive power cables from the DC-DC charger to the leisure battery and fuse board. Why I wired my DC-DC charger in this exact order: Zero Ground Reference: I connected the negatives and ground first to establish a stable reference point for the DC-DC charger. Isolator Switch Protection: Keeping the main isolator switch turned off blocked the battery's charge and kept the wires completely dead and safe to handle while routing. Insulated Wooden Setup: Because my battery bay is completely surrounded by wood, saving the positive connections for last was the easiest way to finish the circuit. With no risk of short-circuit due to a metal tool touching the metal wall of the van. Step Five: Start-Up Checks and DC-DC Charger Set-Up It was at this point we could turn the isolator switch to the 'on' position and start up the system for the first time. After a few seconds, the lights on the Renogy charger should turn on. The next step is setting the battery type using a button on the bottom left of the charger, just below the ignition sensor input. Blue is for lithium. The LED above the battery status indicator should turn yellow once it recognises that the levels are correct. A red LED above the alternator symbol shows when the charger is drawing power. At this point, you can connect the Bluetooth adapter so you can see the battery's charging status on your phone. Step Six: Connecting Appliances Now that we had confirmed the system was working, the last task was hardwiring the fridge and plug socket to the fuse block. I cut the plug off and split the positive and negative cables. The process was similar to preparing the 6 AWG cables, just using smaller cutters, crimpers, and connectors. How to find the positive cable if it's not identifiable by colour If both of the wires are black and you need to find the positive, the easiest way is to look at their shape; the positive is normally round, while the negative will have flat edges that can be felt in your hand. If this isn't an option, you can cut the plug and test the wires with a voltmeter set to the continuity setting. Place a probe from a voltmeter on the end of the plug, then the other to each of the cables. The one that beeps is the positive. Tip: If both of the cables are exactly the same, you should mark them before cutting them. Once the connectors were installed, I passed the wires through the back of the bed and connected them to the fuse board. Before finally installing the appropriate-sized fuse for the appliance. The Alpicool fridge came with a 15 amp fuse in its plug, so I matched it on the fuse board. But you need to calculate the correct fuse size; you can divide the device's wattage by the system voltage to find the base current, then multiply by 1.25 V for a standard 25% safety margin. Start to Finish Walkthrough: What's Next? The next step in the conversion will be building the cabinets and sink. Sign up to get notified when we post our next update, or alternatively subscribe to my YouTube channel. Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts Full Length Video:

Welcome to the 10th instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we'll be building a pull-out bed for our 2020 Peugeot Expert. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own project. Tools Used: Aprox 17 metres of Redwood 50 x 50 mm (2" x 2") PTL NOM: Link Aprox 26 metres of Softwood Whitewood 50 x 22mm (2" x 1") PTL NOM: Link x3 Ply Wood 1829mmx607mm7x5.5mm :Link Mitre Saw: Link Twin Pocket Hole Jig: Link 63mm Self-Cutting Threaded Square Drive Screws: Link 24 Inch Clamps: Link Drill Angle Brackets: Link 4 latches: Link Measuring Tape and Pencil Step One: Planning the Dimensions I placed some of the main components of the van, such as the leisure battery, fridge and water containers, so I could design the layout around them. Then I used tape to mark out the dimensions of the bed and cupboards. The tape made visualising the layout much easier, and I used it to draw up a rough plan and item list. Once I had purchased the wood, I laid it out in the van before drawing up the final design. Step Two: Cutting the Wood to Shape and Drilling Pocket Holes I made a cutting list and prepared the wood for the bed frame. I cut the wood using a mitre saw, which saved a lot of time. Then I used the pocket hole jig so the 63mm screws would be out of sight. It also helped to avoid screws hitting each other as I'd be joining multiple pieces in the same place. See video for directions. Step Three: Gluing and Screwing the Frame We applied wood glue, clamped the frame, then screwed it all together. We used two screws in each joint so there would be no movement. Using large clamps made the process much easier. Step Four: Installing the Slats Once the main bed frame and two pull-out sections were built, we placed them in the van so I could measure the length of the slats more accurately. I did this because the walls of the van aren't straight, so the slats needed to be different lengths. After cutting them all out, I drilled pilot holes and used a countersink so the screws would sit flush with the wood. This would stop the fabric seats from getting caught. Then I clamped the first pull-out section and screwed in the slats on each end. Then the slats alternated between the bed frame and the pull-out sections. The smallest possible regular gaps between the slats would have been just over 2cm, making 8cm gaps when the bed was pulled out. I decided to do 5 mm gaps and staggered the gaps at the end, where it wouldn't be as noticeable when we're lying down. This would make the mattress more comfortable. Note: I designed the bed with two moving sections to make it easier to pull in and out as well as make the space more flexible. Step Five: Making the Plywood Sides and Face The final step was measuring and cutting the plywood faces to shape so they could fit on each side of the bed. I had had the plywood end 5mm above the slats to hold the seats in place. I used an 80mm hole saw to make the curved corners and cut the pieces manually by hand, as it was easier to get a straight line than with a jigsaw. Then I drilled and countersunk the holes. And finally, I clamped the pieces to the bedframe and screwed them in. Step Six: Fastening and Securing the Frame I used two L shape angle brackets to secure the bed to the floor of the van. The last step was installing latches to hold the pull-out sections in place when the van is moving. I used four in total, two for each pull-out section. I placed one on the lower corner and one on the top opposite corner; this reduced vibrations from the road. What's Next? The next step in the conversion will be installing the electrics. Sign up to get notified when we post our next update, or alternatively subscribe to my YouTube channel. Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts

Welcome to the sixth instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we'll be carpeting the walls and doors of our 2020 Peugeot Expert. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own conversion project. Tools Used: Smoke grey carpet X2: Link High-temperature spray adhesive: Link Stanley knife with plenty of replacement blades Fabric scissors Fabric measuring tape & pen Screwdriver with six-lobe Torx screw head and 11mm socket Trim Removal Set: Link Lining the Back Doors Marking The Door Seals We started by marking the point where the door met the rubber seals. We'd be using this to know where to spray the adhesive. Removing The Door Handles, Locks, and Trim Next, we removed the door handles and loosened the locks so the carpet could fit underneath. This would make the process easier and provide a cleaner finish once the job was done. We used a six-lobe Torx screw head and an 11mm socket (pictured above). Taking Measurements We measured the door with a fabric measuring tape to account for the curved edges. We settled on 95cm, which gave us plenty of fabric to work with. Glueing Down The Carpet Once the fabric was cut to shape, we got started with the adhesive spray, starting at the top of the door. It's a contact adhesive, so you'll need to spray both the door and the carpet. We worked our way down, gently stretching the fabric to avoid wrinkles and using our fingers to press it into the grooves for crisp, clean edges. Since the adhesive spray takes a while to dry, we were able to pull the carpet off and readjust it if needed. The material itself was quite flexible. We used a sharp Stanley blade to cut holes just large enough to fit the carpet around the locks and the latches. Once these locks and latches were positioned through the carpet, we glued the carpet down. The process was the same for both doors, with the only key difference being the location of the door handle. I taped over the recessed door handle so it wouldn't get attached to the carpet. Trimming The Edges Once all the carpet was stuck down on both of the rear doors, I went around trimming the edges. I used a fresh Stanley blade for every two or three cuts so the edge would be clean. As soon as the blade gets a little dull, it's very noticeable. By referring to where the seals meet the door, I was able to cut the carpet so it wouldn't stick out too far, which is important as this could cause a leak. Tip: If you leave the door shut for a while, the rubber seals will leave an imprint on the carpet, letting you know where you need to make the edge. Reinstalling The Trim Once the carpet had been successfully installed, the last job was re-screwing in everything that we had previously removed. I had to cut holes for the screws and pushed the rubber trim back over the carpet along the edge where the doors meet. Fixing Stiff Rear Doors After I had finished reattaching the lock latches, I found the doors were much more difficult to open than before. To fix this, I unscrewed them a bit so they were still held in place but had some wiggle room. I lifted the latch into a position where the door would shut more easily while still holding itself in place. Once I was happy with the position, I tightened them back up. I did this on both sides, and after it was done, they opened much more smoothly than before I had removed them in the first place. Lining the Side Doors Marking The Door Seals Like with the back doors, I started by marking the point where the doors met the rubber seals. Removing The Door Handles Next, we removed the door handles. For this, I used a trim removal tool to pry out the centre plastic piece around the handle. Once this was removed, I could then access the two screws that hold the main piece of plastic trim in place. Finally, I removed the last piece with a trim removal tool. Taking Measurements We used the fabric measuring tape again to measure the door; this time, we settled on 1.3 metres. Glueing Down The Carpet After we had cut the fabric to shape, we got started with the adhesive spray. We started in the middle this time, as this would make it easier to mark the screw holes that will hold the upper piece of plywood in place. Most of the side doors will be covered with the ply lining, except for the middle section and edges. The process was exactly the same for both doors this time. Trimming The Edges Once all the carpet was stuck down, I went around trimming the edges. This time it was a bit more fiddly due to the lack of space. I have seen people take the whole door off for this part of the job, but I thought it would be more work than needed, and I didn't want to risk scratching the outside of the door. After trimming around the edges, I cleaned them with isopropyl alcohol to remove any excess carpet and oversprayed glue. If the knife became dull during the process, the edges would appear more fuzzy. In that case, I would go over it again with a fresh blade and re-trim the edges for a cleaner finish. Reinstalling The Trim Once the carpet had been fully stuck down, I reinstalled the trim around the door handle. Fixing Creases On three out of the four doors, we had to fix sections with overlapping material. To remedy this, we: Cut out a diagonal line from the corner and glued down each section, leaving a gap in the middle without spray. Once the pieces were stuck down, we went over both of them with a Stanley knife. Finally, we removed the excess piece from the centre, and the remaining two sides met in the middle. Then they could be glued down. Lining the Walls Section Around The Side Doors Using the remaining fabric from the first roll of carpet, we covered the section of wall above the door after removing the rubber seals. The only tricky part of this section was covering the metal that protrudes from the wall. However, it only took a few cuts to allow the material to stretch around its edges. This section will eventually be covered by the curtain, which we'll be installing at a later date, so it didn't need to be perfect. Then we overlapped a second piece of carpet and used a fresh blade to cut both pieces along the same point. Once the first piece was glued down, we carefully lined up the second one before glueing it down as well, making the seam hardly noticeable. See the video above for more details. After both pieces were attached, I trimmed off the excess material and reinstalled the seals. The process was the same on both sides, except for having to work around the wires that run along the left side of the van’s roof. Side Panel I decided to carpet only one of the larger side panels. The side next to the bed will be carpeted, while the other will be painted. I chose this approach to avoid having carpet next to the stove while cooking inside the van, and it should also make the interior a bit brighter. This was the point when the first roll of carpet was used up. I started by placing the plywood panel over the carpet and cutting out a rough shape. Before continuing with the carpet, I glued and clamped down a chipped piece of wood, then sanded the edges to make them smooth. Once the wood was ready, we used the adhesive spray to stick down a strip at one end. From there, we rolled the carpet up and worked our way down, being careful to avoid making any creases. When the first side was fully glued down, we marked the screw hole points, then flipped the panel over. We had to make some cuts so the fabric could stretch around the edges. We also trimmed any overlapped material, as too much would have pushed the panel away from the wall and made gaps. The back side didn’t need to look perfect; the material just needed to cover the edges. We made a mistake by carpeting over the screw holes on the rear of the panel, as the hardened adhesive was very tough to get through. If I were to do this again, I would cut out those sections to avoid the holes—this would have made the reinstallation much easier. Rear Arch Before we could reinstall the plywood lining, we had to carpet the rear arch of the van. We started by taping over the light and door lock loops. Then, we removed two pieces of trim, one of which involved unplugging the 12V charging port. There were also some wires running along the top of the van that we carefully cut free to create more space. Next, we measured and cut a long strip of carpet to cover the entire section with one piece. We ended up having to make one cut in a corner, using the same method as above the door, as the carpet became misaligned. As with previous sections, once the job was complete, we trimmed away the excess material, including around the light, and reinstalled the trim. Reinstalling the Carpeted Wooden Panelling With all the carpeting done, the final step was reinstalling the plywood lining. I found it easiest to start by screwing in the side nearest the side door, as I could see the screw holes more easily. When I couldn’t find the holes, I used a longer screw to identify them, then pushed the wood to bend it closer to the wall before screwing it in. This was a little tricky, but it looked great when it was done. What's Next? In the next instalment of our campervan conversion series, we’ll be reinstalling the ply lining after giving it a fresh coat of paint. For more van content, visit my YouTube channel here . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts

Welcome to the ninth instalment of our camper conversion series! When we removed the bulkhead from our 2020 Peugeot Expert at the start of our conversion, we were left with uncovered seatbacks – which didn't look great. So in this post, we'll be reupholstering them. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own project. Tools Used: Curved upholstery needle: Link Black fabric and thread: Link Paper to make pattern Fabric scissors Pins Velcro and glue for the lower section Step One: Measuring the Seats We started by pinning some spare wallpaper to the seats. Then, we cut it to shape to create the pattern we'd use for the fabric. If we cut too much of the paper away, we used pins to add it back where needed. Step Two: Cutting the Fabric to Shape I pinned the pattern to the fabric and used it as a guide while cutting it out. Step Three: Installing Velcro After looking at the passenger seat, I realised that there was wasn't much material to sew into on the lower sections, so I decided to use Velcro. I cut two strips of Velcro and used Gorilla Glue to hold them in place. Tip: Glue takes a few hours to adhere to metal. Use tape to hold it in place while it dries, as it will need to be firm before moving on to the next step. The next day, before we got started sewing, I glued the other side of the Velcro to the fabric after making sure it was in the right position – this took a lot less time to dry as it was on fabric. Step Four: Sewing the Fabric With both seat backs pinned in place, I sewed around the edges. Watch the video above to learn the stitch we used. I worked in sections, using approximately 1 metre of thread each time to avoid unwanted knots. I sewed along the top of the passenger seats first, starting from the plastic seatbelt cover along to the top left corner, before ending the run stitch at the point the Velcro started. The final stitch ended back at the plastic seatbelt cover. This was practical, as the fabric could be tucked under the cover, giving us more space to tie the final knot. Tip: Make sure to leave plenty of thread to tie the knot at the end of each section and end in a place that will be covered later on. On the driver's side, I ended the final stitch at the bottom of the seat, as it would be out of sight. I'm happy with how this step of the project turned out. Even with no prior sewing experience, we were able to greatly improve the finish of the van. What's Next? The next step in the conversion will be building the bed and cupboards, and after that we'll be doing the electrics. Sign up to get notified when we post our next update, or alternatively subscribe to my YouTube channel . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts

The Pixel 9a was released in April 2025 and serves as Google's mid-range offering from their Pixel lineup. Featuring camera performance that punches above its modest £350 price point, is the Pixel 9a the perfect phone for budget-minded consumers, or is it worth spending a little more for its larger siblings? Let’s find out! Design The Pixel 9a features an aluminum frame with an 81% recycled plastic back. The plastic back is the only part of the 9a that doesn’t quite feel first-class, but the metal frame and tactile buttons make the device feel more premium than its price suggests. Its rounded corners definitely give the 9a an iPhone-esque look, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, as its shape helps the device fit comfortably in your hand. The tiny, approximately 1mm camera bump is a welcome change, making typing while the device is lying flat a much more pleasant experience. The Pixel 9a features Gorilla Glass 3, which was first released in 2013. That’s a bit disappointing, especially considering that the Pixel 9 and Pixel 10 both use Gorilla Glass Victus, which is four generations newer. However, the 9a is the first "a" model phone to feature an IP68 rating, making it water and dust resistant. The Pixel 9a's 120Hz OLED screen is sharp and vibrant. At 6.3 inches, it’s fairly compact by today’s standards, making the phone easy to slip into your pocket. The only minor downside where the screen is concerned is its prominent bezels, but that’s easy to overlook given the overall package. User Experience The setup process was painless, and Google has done a great job reducing bloatware - a common issue with affordable phones. Performance-wise, I’ve had no issues. Apps open quickly, and there’s no noticeable lag during daily tasks. I tested the Pixel 9a with demanding games like PUBG and War Thunder, and it maintained consistent frame rates on medium to high settings. The phone did get a bit warm, but it never became hot to the touch or caused concern. I'm generally not a big fan of AI features, and the 9a offers fewer AI tools compared to the Pixel 9 due to its lower 8GB of RAM. That's actually a plus for me, but potential buyers should keep it in mind. There is one AI feature I've used a few times, which is holding the centre home button and swiping up to get information about highlighted images or text - a handy addition. Camera Pixels are renowned for their camera performance, and the 9a continues that tradition. It sports a dual-camera system with a 48-megapixel main sensor and a 13-megapixel ultra-wide lens. The front-facing camera is also 13 megapixels. The main camera’s megapixels have been reduced from 64 on the previous model, the Pixel 8a, and the sensor size has also been reduced. However, the wider aperture of f/1.7 (compared to f/1.9 on the 8a) might help offset that slightly. Photos taken with the Pixel 9a are well-balanced, and the camera app runs smoothly with no delay between photos. However, the lack of a telephoto lens might disappoint some potential buyers. Click here for sample photos The 9a has many smart camera features, including modes such as long exposure, portrait, night, and panorama. There's also a fun “Add Me” mode, which helps you and your friends appear together in group photos. It works by taking multiple pictures and combining them so everyone is in the same shot. Video capabilities include 4K at 60 fps, slow motion, and time-lapse. There’s also a Pan mode that crops in to help with smooth panning shots — though I’m not sure how often most consumers will use this feature. I've generally been happy with the video footage captured in well-lit areas, but the 9A struggles in low light, resulting in noisy videos with noticeably worse stabilisation. Overall, the cameras on the 9a are some of the best at this price point. That said, there’s not a huge difference compared to previous Pixel models. Flagship phones from iPhone and Samsung still deliver superior results, but at less than half the price, the 9a is a true bargain. Any Complaints? My only real disappointment with the Pixel 9a is its subpar speakers and the absence of a headphone jack. While the phone performs well overall, it’s worth noting that budget phones from brands like Honor or Xiaomi often cater to markets where people rely on their phone as their primary entertainment device. These brands tend to focus on features that improve media playback, including better speakers, even if it means cutting back on internal hardware or security updates. So, if you listen to music around the house or use an aux cable regularly, this is something to keep in mind. During the first few days of ownership, I noticed the battery would drain overnight, but this issue resolved itself after some time—likely due to smart battery-saving features. In all other aspects, battery life has been solid, easily lasting a full day with average use. Specs Feature Release date Apr, 2025 Dimensions 154 x 73.3 x 8.9mm Weight 185.9g Display size & resolution 6.3-inch Actua display (1,080 x 2,424 pixels) OS Android 15 Refresh rate 120Hz Storage 128/256GB CPU Google Tensor G4 RAM 8GB Battery 5,100mAh Rear cameras 48MP wide lens + 13MP ultrawide Front cameras 13MP Click here for a full list of specifications Conclusion My experience with the Google Pixel 9a has been a positive one. Its smart software, smooth performance, and impressive camera capabilities make it easy to recommend. Supported by one of the largest names in tech, Google offers security updates until 2032, making this device a smart long-term investment for budget-conscious consumers.

Welcome to the seventh instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we'll be painting and reinstalling ply lining into our 2020 Peugeot Expert. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own conversion project. Tools Used: Undercoat: Link Paint of your choice Drill Screwdriver Pen For Landscape Painting: Acrylic paints: Link Varnish: Link Brushes: Link 1 / Link 2 Step One: Prepping the Wood Since we were reusing the original ply lining, we needed to sand down the rough edges. I also tried clamping some of the warped pieces to straighten them out, but this had little effect, although the bends weren't noticeable once the wood was screwed in place. Step Two: Painting Once the wood was prepped, we started with a layer of undercoat. After it had dried, we applied three layers of colour. I painted the lower panels green and the upper/largest ones white. Step Three: Landscape Painting I decided to paint a landscape to give the van a bit more of a personal touch. I used some of the same green we used on the lower panels so it would match the rest of the van. To make the hills appear further away, I added cheap white acrylic paint from Amazon. I also used this paint for the blue water and grey mountains. The top of the painting uses the same white as the rest of the white panels, again to make it match. I used three layers of varnish to protect the paint underneath. Step Four: Reinstalling the Panels Large Side Panel: First, we needed to find the screw holes, which had been hidden under the carpet lining. We started by lining up the ply lining to the wall to find their approximate location and used a needle to find the hole. Then, we used tape to mark its position, which made lining everything up easier. Once the first screw was in, the others were less difficult to find. We had to use longer screws in this section to account for the additional layer of insulation we had previously installed. Lower Section of Side and Back Doors: The lower panels originally had two layers of wood—one held in with clips and another screwed in on top of it. Using the underlayer as a guide, I marked the position of the screw holes. I closed the door so I wouldn't be pushing too hard against the hinges while screwing the panel in place. I used the original screws for these sections. Tip: If you don't have the underlayer to use as a guide, I'd recommend marking the holes while you carpet-line the van. Upper Section of Side Doors: The upper wooden panels are held in place by screws with plastic spacers/stand-off washers. I marked the holes for this section when we carpet-lined the van. I screwed in the bottom screw and rested the panel in place. Then, I found the next hole using a needle, but there wasn't enough space due to the insulation. I marked the new holes about a cm further out, using the panel as a guide. Tip: It had to be tight so the panels wouldn't vibrate or fall out while we're driving. Having an extra pair of hands to hold up the panel while you screw it in will make this job a lot easier. The method is the same on the upper section of the rear doors, but I decided they looked fine without the panelling now that we have installed the carpet. For more van content, visit my YouTube channel here . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts

In this blog post, we'll be taking a look at fludrocortisone. We will learn how it works and how it's used to help people with POTS. What is POTS? First, let’s define POTS. Postural Orthostatic Tachycardia Syndrome (POTS) is a condition that falls under the umbrella of dysautonomia—a group of disorders related to dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system . The term “autonomic” refers to the self-governing nature of this system, which controls involuntary functions that we do not consciously regulate. These include breathing, digestion, heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature, sweating, and more. What is Fludrocortisone? Fludrocortisone is a corticosteroid , a mild steroid, used to expand your plasma volume. It does this by increasing salt retention via the kidneys. It is typically prescribed in doses of 50 to 300 micrograms and is usually taken once a day. How Does Fludrocortisone Help People With POTS? By increasing sodium retention, fludrocortisone also increases overall blood volume, which can help reduce episodes of low blood pressure. With greater hydration , your body will be better equipped to manage blood pressure shifts when you stand or take part in strenuous activities. Important Considerations While Taking Fludrocortisone: Drink 2-3 liters of water daily. Increase salt intake, as your body will need more to replenish sodium levels. Increase potassium intake, since low potassium is a common side effect. For more information about side effects or fluid management, click here . Conclusion Fludrocortisone can be an effective treatment option for managing symptoms of POTS by helping to increase blood volume and stabilize blood pressure. However, it's often a second-line drug used when midodrine is not well tolerated. Useful Links: NHS Website: https://www.gatesheadhealth.nhs.uk/resources/fludrocortisone/ What is POTS?: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/postural-tachycardia-syndrome/ Stop Fainting Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PF4C0CDdzcE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-8r4EHp4UQ

After previously looking at the Fed 3a and Zenit TTL, we're continuing the Soviet theme with the FED 3b rangefinder camera. The Fed 3 is a 35mm rangefinder produced in the USSR, first introduced in 1961, a few revisions removed from the original Leica II copy. The FED 3b version was released two years later in 1963. It retains most of the features of the previous models, but unlike the FED 2 and 3a , it doesn't feature the stepped-deck Leica-based design, although the internals are pretty much identical. In this classic camera review , we will explore the history of the FED 3b, its strengths and weaknesses, and provide you with all the information you'll need to decide if this Soviet-made camera is right for you. A Brief History The FED rangefinder cameras were mass-produced from 1934 until around 1996. The factory originated from small workshops of the Children's Labour Commune, named after Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky. The acronym "FED" was derived from his name. The workshops were established in December 1927 in Kharkiv, present-day Ukraine. In 1932, the new managing director of the factory, A.S. Bronevoy (Russian: А.С. Броневой), proposed producing a copy of the German Leica camera. During World War II, production was relocated to Siberia after the factory in Kharkiv was overrun by Nazi German forces. Starting in 19 55, FED began to introduce innovations: The FED-2 (1955–1970) combined the rangefinder with the viewfinder. The FED-3 (1961–1979) added slower shutter speeds. The b model had no strap lugs, but an ever-ready case was originally available. The FED-4 (1964–1977) featured a non-coupled selenium exposure meter. The FED-5 (1977–1996) came equipped with an exposure meter, while the FED-5B was a more affordable version without a meter, and the later FED-5C also appeared. Aesthetics and Build Quality The 3b was the first model to stray from the stepped deck design; this continued for the later models as well. This new body shape further separates it from its German heritage, instead displaying the Soviet Union's principles of simple, utilitarian designs that were efficient and affordable for mass production. The rounded edges of the body and mushroom-shaped dials give the FED 3b a distinct charm—even if it’s not going to turn many heads. But its full metal construction and hefty weight (approximately 670 grams) make the camera feel sturdy and dependable. Lens Selection FED 3bs were typically sold with f2.8 Industar-61 52mm lenses, which are known for their strong performance for such a simple and affordable lens. Satisfactorily sharp wide open and very sharp at f5.6-f8, with good colour saturation and contrast—if not quite as good as later multicoated lenses. The lens performed much better than my older copy of the Jupiter 50mm that came with the FED 3a, but that may be down to poor quality control typical of Soviet lenses. With a wide variety of M39 lenses to choose from, there's an option for every budget and preference. From the sharp, high-quality lenses of Zeiss and Leica to the cheap and cheerful "communist glass", options are plentiful across all price points. It's worth noting that the viewfinder only displays a frame for 50mm lenses, so there will be fewer lens options when compared to an SLR. Layout and Controls The FED 3b features simple manual controls with no built-in light meter, which may be off-putting for people new to the world of film photography. However, others may appreciate the hands-on approach. At the top of the camera, you will find the film rewind lever, cold shoe, shutter speed dial, shutter button with lock, and the film advance lever. The addition of the advance lever, which replaces the old dial/knob, does make the camera feel a generation newer when compared to the older Fed and Zorki models, and I found it to be surprisingly smooth. Important note:  The shutter must be cocked before changing the shutter speed to avoid damaging the mechanism. This is common with a few Soviet cameras from this era. Aperture and focusing are controlled on the lens. When looking through the viewfinder, there is a small patch that displays a faint image in the centre. When the two images align, you will be in focus. The only other item on the front of the camera is the delay timer. These are generally the first parts of the camera to fail, so I tend to avoid using them. To load film, there are two rotating latches that hold the back in place. For full instructions: Click Here I enjoy the basic functionality of the FED 3b; my only real complaint is the small, dark viewfinder, which makes it difficult to see clearly in low light. It also features a large diopter correction ring around the viewfinder, which can make it difficult to get your eye close enough to see the full frame, especially if you wear glasses and the diopter correction isn't sufficient. Additionally, the small focusing patch makes fine adjustments tricky, particularly in darker environments. As a result, I found that zone focusing was the easiest way to use the camera. I didn't find these issues discouraging; in fact, the lack of luxury is part of the camera's charm. If you are interested in bright and wide viewfinders, check out my review of the Olympus OM-1n , which features excellent viewfinder clarity and coverage (approximately 96%). Reliability The FED's simple construction means there is less that can go wrong with the camera. Generally, they're considered reliable if properly maintained, but there are some common issues to watch out for, with the most frequent fault being related to the shutter. Because the shutter must be cocked before selecting the shutter speed, many examples you find on auction sites like eBay may have inaccurate shutter speeds or could be completely broken due to misuse. However, this isn't the case for all FED 3b cameras. Any tested and working examples have already survived 60 years, and with the right care, they should continue to function well. Most cameras of this age could probably benefit from a CLA (cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment), but with over two million produced, finding a replacement shouldn’t be too difficult if something does go wrong. Price There are lots of FED 3s available on auction sites such as eBay, typically priced between £40 and £70 in the UK, and I’d try to aim for the lower end of that range. When shopping online, ensure you only purchase from highly-rated sellers, or consider buying from a reputable used camera shop that offers a warranty. Before committing to a FED, it's also worth exploring some alternative cameras. Other Soviet rangefinders like the Zorki 4 or the Kiev series fall into a similar price range and can be great options to consider. Conclusion In conclusion, the FED 3b offers a no-frills approach to film photography. Its vintage aesthetic, simple controls, and compatibility with a wide range of sharp lenses make it a suitable choice for enthusiasts seeking a hands-on experience. Overall, the FED 3b provides a reliable and characterful camera at an accessible price point, making it a worthwhile addition to any film photographer’s collection. Sample photos: Click here

Address : Bay, Kimmeridge, Wareham BH20 5PF Location Kimmeridge Bay is a part of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site , located in Dorset, a short drive from Swanage. The bay might be most well-known for its fossils, which can be found in the aptly named Kimmeridge clay   that falls from the cliffs as they are eroded. What's there? The Wild Seas Centre is located on the eastern side of the bay and features a small aquarium with wildlife that can be found in the local waters. There are also interactive displays suitable for young children. The centre is closed for the winter from November to March. Parking There is parking available next to the wildlife centre, with level gravel surfaces. There is also parking available next to the public toilets, along with the main car park further round the bay. All car parks are accessed via a toll road, with the following prices: Motorcycles: £1.20 Cars: £6 Minibuses & Motor Homes: £12 Coaches / Over 15 Seater: £24 Vehicle with Trailer: £18 Vehicle with boat / canoe on roof: £12 Accessibility The car park and nearby benches offer a wonderful view of the bay without needing to walk more than 5-10 metres. The Wild Sea Centre is conveniently located next to the car park, making it ideal for visitors who struggle to walk long distances. The Wild Sea Centre has a sloped gravel path leading down to it, which may be difficult for those with limited mobility (pictured at the top of the page). For more information about the accessibility of the bay itself: click here Conclusion The Wild Seas Centre is perfect for all age groups and is well worth a visit if you're in the area. It's quite small, so it won't take more than 15 minutes to see everything. The friendly volunteers really made my visit stand out.

In this blog post, I'll be walking you through how I fixed the stiff rear barn doors on my Gen 3 Peugeot Expert. The video above is a short clip from my carpet lining tutorial , which you can find on my YouTube channel . The Process I started by loosening the bolts that hold the lock latch in place. Next, I lifted the latch into a position that allowed the door to shut more easily while still locking securely. Once I was satisfied with how it was working, I tightened the bolts back up. I repeated the process on both of the doors. With both lock latches adjusted, the doors were much easier to open and close compared to how they were before I first removed them while carpet lining the van. I hope you find this quick fix helpful. If it doesn’t resolve your issue, the problem might be with the exterior door latches, which often rust and could benefit from some oil. For more online Peugeot Expert tutorials, click here .

In this blog post, we will be taking a look at the most frequently reported triggers of POTS symptoms. By recognising these common day-to-day triggers, you'll be able to make the adjustments you need to live a healthier, more active lifestyle. What is POTS? First, let’s define POTS. Postural Orthostatic Tachycardia Syndrome (POTS) is a condition that falls under the umbrella of dysautonomia—a group of disorders related to dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system . The term “autonomic” refers to the self-governing nature of this system, which controls involuntary functions that we do not consciously regulate. These include breathing, digestion, heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature, sweating, and more. Triggers of POTS Temperature When researching for this post, I found that, for many others like myself, temperature was the single largest trigger of POTS flare-ups after more direct causes such as physical exertion, standing for long periods, and dehydration—more on that later. People with POTS frequently have trouble regulating their temperature. This is because the system that regulates heart rate—the autonomic nervous system—also controls your body temperature. The autonomic nervous system (ANS) is generally at the core of many issues related to POTS. When your body gets hot, blood vessels widen, which causes your heart to beat faster to maintain the correct blood pressure. This extra challenge is why many people with POTS struggle during the hotter summer months. We have a dedicated page on managing symptoms during hot weather, which you can find here . Dehydration The purpose of this blog post is to explore lesser-known triggers that newly diagnosed people might not recognise. However, I always feel the need to touch on hydration, as anyone who has lived with POTS will have been told repeatedly—it’s very important. Many symptoms of POTS  stem from low blood pressure. When we stand up, gravity pulls blood down to the lower parts of our bodies, away from our brain and other vital organs. In POTS patients, our bodies struggle to adjust to this change. By increasing our fluid and salt intake, we can boost our blood volume, which helps our bodies function more efficiently and reduces symptoms such as lightheadedness, dizziness, and elevated heart rate. We also have a page dedicated to this topic, which you can find here . Stress Both physical and emotional stress can worsen POTS symptoms. This again relates to the autonomic nervous system, specifically the sympathetic part of the system. The sympathetic nervous system controls the fight-or-flight response, which is why POTS is often confused with anxiety. In fact, these conditions often go hand in hand, creating a feedback loop that can be difficult to break. This is why mindfulness and meditation play a key role in reducing POTS symptoms. Visit our " Link Between Hypermobility and POTS/Dysautonomia " post to learn more about why hypervigilance and adrenaline surges are common among POTS patients. Diet Everyone knows that maintaining a healthy, balanced diet is essential for our overall health. This becomes even more important when living with a chronic illness. Digestion is another "automatic" process controlled by the autonomic nervous system and is a common source of secondary symptoms, such as bloating, gas, diarrhoea, and constipation. Eating large, heavy meals is likely to worsen POTS symptoms, as blood is directed to the stomach to aid digestion, lowering blood pressure. That’s why it’s recommended to eat smaller portions more frequently rather than two or three large meals a day. Click here for more information about a POTS-friendly diet. Sleep As mentioned earlier, high levels of hypervigilance and adrenaline are common issues faced by people with POTS, making it difficult to get a good night’s sleep. But lack of sleep can also cause a rise in unwanted symptoms. Poor sleep routines disrupt your body’s ability to rest and recover. Therefore, practicing good sleep hygiene is essential to keep your body in the best shape possible. Stimulants Both alcohol and caffeine, along with other drug use, are likely to trigger an increase in unwanted symptoms. In fact, 16 to 73% of chronic alcohol abusers suffer from autonomic dysfunction. Alcohol causes blood vessels to widen, lowering blood pressure, and also leads to dehydration—all of which should be avoided if you live with POTS. Caffeine is also a common trigger due to its effects on heart rate and its disruption of sleep. Final note: I hope some of this information proves useful and has a positive impact when you put it into practice. Thank you for reading.