The Powools Handheld Vacuum is an affordable, compact vacuum priced at £34.99 on Amazon. With over 2,000 reviews and a 4.3-star rating, it’s one of the most budget-friendly vacuums on the market. But is it any good? In this tech review , we’ll explore both the positives and negatives of the Powools, as well as its value for money, to help you determine if it’s the right choice for you. At a Glance Pros Cons Affordable Less effective on stubborn messes Ease of use Cheap feeling construction Perfect for keeping on top of light mess What’s in the box? Before diving into the vacuum itself, let’s first look at what’s included: Vacuum Brush nozzle Length extender Two HEPA filters Charger Usability The Powools is ideal for cleaning small spaces and spots like skirting boards, banisters, and window sills. It’s lightweight, and the included length extender makes it easy to access hard-to-reach areas. Using the vacuum is straightforward—attaching the brush extender, loading and unloading the filters, and operating the device are simple tasks. The Powools features a built-in light to help spot dust and debris, although I rarely found myself needing to use it. As for dust pickup, this vacuum is effective on light dirt and debris. However, its suction power isn’t comparable to full-sized vacuum cleaners or even higher-end handheld models. Build Quality The build quality reflects its price point: it’s made of inexpensive plastic, which may feel a bit plasticky. However, it still feels sturdy enough for frequent use, and I never had concerns about it breaking down during operation. The battery life is also sufficient for most cleaning tasks. Value At under £40, I can’t really complain about its capabilities. It’s a welcome addition to our main home vacuum setup— robotic or traditional—and makes reaching those tricky spots much easier. Conclusion Overall, I think the Powools handheld vacuum fulfills its role as a budget device quite well. It’s suitable for users who prefer a lightweight alternative to a bulky vacuum and don’t want to spend a lot. It would also be handy for vehicle cleaning and makes a good accessory for campervans or motorhomes. I would recommend this device as long as you keep your expectations realistic. If you’re seeking higher performance, you’ll need to increase your budget. However, within its price range, the Powools is a viable and practical option.

In this blog post, I'll be walking through the process of installing a pair of JBL Stage 1 6.5-inch side door speakers. The process should be similar no matter your vehicle, but for this example, I'll be installing them into my Gen 3 Peugeot Expert (2016-onwards). This process will also be the same in the other PSA group vans, including the Citroën Dispatch, Vauxhall Vivaro, and Toyota Proace. For a more detailed, PSA-specific guide, click here. Item List: JBL 621 Stage 1: Link Trim removal set: Link Screwdriver Cable adapter for your vehicle's model Drill with a small drill bit (around 3mm) Pen or marker Electrical tape (if needed): Link Wire cutter/stripper (if needed): Link Optional: additional mounting hardware and sound deadening Step 1: Removing the Door Panel To begin, you'll need to remove any plastic trim so you can access the screws that hold the door panel in place. Once that's done, remove all the screws and save them for reinstallation later. Step 2: Removing the Old Speaker and Preparing the Wires Unclip the original speaker's cable and unscrew it from the door. You'll need to run the cables back into the door after removing the old speaker, as the JBL's connectors will be located on the inside. If your speaker was directly wired, you will need to cut and prep the wires so they can be reattached to the new speaker. Most modern cars should have adapter cables, which you'll be able to find online. Before moving on to installing the new speaker, check that the cable adapter connects securely. If not, compress the clip to eliminate any play. Step 3: Installing the New Speaker Tools needed: Drill Screwdriver Pen Electrical tape (if needed) Adapter cable Optional: Adapter bracket Sound damping mats or pads Note: I initially ordered an adapter bracket, but only two of its screw holes matched the new speaker. It was easier to reuse two of the original holes in the door and make an additional one to ensure the speaker would be secure. This method made the adapter bracket redundant. Position the new speaker and identify any reusable holes. Three screws should be enough to hold the speaker in securely. Mark the spots for any new holes. Also, mark the original holes and the points you will be screwing into on the speaker itself to make lining everything up easier later on. Use a thin drill bit to create the new holes. Take care not to damage the wires or window behind the panel. Note: I placed electrical tape around the point where the speaker will be fastened to the door as a simple, cost-effective sound-damping method. This worked well for me, but if you're planning to play loud, bass-heavy music, consider investing in proper sound-damping materials. Place the speaker into position, noting which side the cables inside the door will need to be on, and use tape to secure them. This will prevent the cables from getting caught or pinched by the window. Once everything is aligned, connect the adapter cable. Screw the speaker into place using the original screws in their original holes and the new screws included with the speaker into the newly drilled hole. Be careful not to overtighten the screws, as they can pull on the rubber of the speaker. Tip: Test the speaker before fully tightening all screws—this simplifies troubleshooting if there's an issue. Step 4: Reinstalling the Door Panel Make sure that any plastic clips are properly aligned, facing the correct direction; otherwise, the panel won't fit onto the door. Lift the top of the door panel over the rubber trim along the window. It should hang in place, making it easier to push the clips back in. Finally, screw in the screws you saved earlier. The last step is to reinstall any plastic trim that was removed earlier. Note: If you're not using an amplifier, don't expect a huge increase in volume; the new speakers may even sound quieter because they require more power to drive. However, you should notice improved clarity. Also, if your new side door speakers include tweeters, you might need to adjust the EQ settings on your head unit to reduce harshness, as you'll have more high frequencies than before. For more van content, visit my YouTube channel here . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts

In this blog post, I'll be walking through the process of installing new speakers into a Gen 3 Peugeot Expert (2016-onwards). This process will also be the same in the other PSA group vans, including the Citroën Dispatch, Vauxhall Vivaro, and Toyota Proace. For this example, I'll be installing a pair of JBL Stage 1 6.5-inch side door speakers. Item List: JBL 621 Stage 1: Link Trim removal set: Link Screwdriver with six-lobe Torx screw heads: Link Cable adapter: Link Drill with a small drill bit (around 3mm) Pen or marker Electrical tape: Link Wire cutter/stripper (if needed): Link Optional: additional mounting hardware and sound deadening Step 1: Removing the Door Panel To begin, you'll need the trim removal set, which makes the process much easier, and a screwdriver with a six-lobe Torx head. The first step is removing the trim so you can access the screws that hold the panel in place. Carefully remove the trim around the door handle, the window switch, and the wing mirror. (See the video for more detail) Once the trim is removed, there are six screws to undo. These are located: Under the window switches Opposite the wing mirror Next to the door handle Further left of the door handle Next to the speaker At the bottom of the door panel Remove all the screws and save them for reinstallation later. Step 2: Removing the Old Speaker and Preparing the Wires Unclip the speaker cable and unscrew the four screws securing the old speaker. Use a trim remover to pry off the speaker, which is also secured with glue. Once the old speaker is out, cut a small hole in the rubber entry point so the cable can pass through into the door, following the other preexisting wires. This is necessary because the connector for the new speaker will be on the inside of the door. Before moving on to installing the new speaker, check that the cable adapter connects securely. If not, compress the clip to eliminate any play. Step 3: Installing the New Speaker Tools needed: Drill Pen Screwdriver Electrical tape Adapter cable Optional: Adapter bracket Sound damping mats or pads Note: I initially ordered an adapter bracket, but only two of its screw holes matched the new speaker. It was easier to reuse two of the original holes in the door and make an additional one to ensure the speaker would be secure. This method made the adapter bracket redundant. Position the new speaker and identify the reusable holes. Mark the spot for the new hole. Also, mark the original holes and the points you will be screwing into on the speaker itself to make lining everything up easier later. Use a thin drill bit to create the new hole. Take care not to damage the wires or window behind the panel. Note: I placed electrical tape around the points where the speaker will be fastened to the door as a simple, cost-effective sound-damping method. This worked well for me, but if you're planning to play loud, bass-heavy music or install a more powerful speaker, consider investing in proper sound-damping materials. Place the speaker into position, noting which side the cable's inside the door will need to be on, and use tape to secure them. This will prevent the cables from getting caught or pinched by the window. Once everything is aligned, connect the adapter cable. Screw the speaker into place using two of the original screws in their original holes, and one of the new screws included with the speaker in the newly drilled hole. Be careful not to overtighten the screws, as this can pull on the rubber of the speaker. Tip: Test the speaker before fully tightening all screws—this simplifies troubleshooting if there's an issue. Step 4: Reinstalling the Door Panel Make sure all the plastic clips are properly aligned and in the door panel, not in the metal door itself. Use a trim remover if needed. The clips must face the correct direction; otherwise, the panel won't fit onto the door. Lift the top of the door panel over the rubber trim along the window. It should hang in place, making it easier to push the clips back in. Finally, screw in the screws you saved earlier. The last step is to reinstall the plastic trim pieces. Note: If you're not using an amplifier, don't expect a huge increase in volume; the new speakers may even sound quieter because they require more power to drive. However, you should notice improved clarity. Also, if your new side door speakers include tweeters, you might need to adjust the EQ settings on your head unit to reduce harshness, as you'll have more high frequencies than before. For more van content, visit my YouTube channel here . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts

Address : Claycart Rd, Wellington Ave, Aldershot GU11 1SQ Location Aldershot Raceway hosts Stock Car, Hot Rod, and Banger Racing on sunday afternoons between February and October. Click here to find the next race dates . Stadium gates open at 9 a.m. for competitors and 10 a.m. for spectators at regular events. At Aldershot Raceway, you will find: Racetrack Grandstand Food stalls Toilets General Admission £20.00 Concession: (66yr’s & over) £18.00 Concession: Children (5-14yrs) Under 5yrs go free £8.00 Family Ticket: 2 Adults & 3 Children £50.00 Programme £3.00 Pit Pass £2.00 Car Parking £2.00 Payment is accepted on entry with cash or card. Prices are reduced when booking in advance . Parking The raceway features a large on-site car park with a parking fee of £2.00. There are a limited number of designated disabled parking spaces, which are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Accessibility The level concrete surfaces from the car park to the track make this venue accessible for visitors using mobility aids such as wheelchairs and mobility scooters. Approximately one-third of the track is viewable from these level surfaces, primarily near the car park, with the remaining area consisting of a grass bank. The distance from the furthest point of the car park to the grandstand is approximately 125 metres. Conclusion Aldershot Raceway offers an exciting and accessible venue for racing enthusiasts and families alike. With reasonable ticket prices and convenient parking, it's sure to provide an enjoyable day out for all visitors.

South Dr, Ferring, Worthing BN12 5QU Location Ferring Beach, located in West Sussex, is a shingle beach nestled between the busier towns of Worthing and Littlehampton. The beach is dog friendly, making it the ideal spot for a relaxing escape for all the family. This stretch of coast is popular with kitesurfers and windsurfers, thanks to its steady breezes. At low tide, visitors will find rock pools, and the clean waters make it a great spot for swimming. What's There? At Ferring beach, you will find: Pebble and shingle beach Coastal walks Beach huts The Bluebird Cafe Car park Public toilets The Bluebird Cafe The Bluebird Café offers a diverse menu featuring seafood, toasties and sandwiches, burgers, and much more. With menus for breakfast and lunch, both with vegan and gluten-free options, there's something to satisfy every palate. The friendly staff and dog-friendly environment make it a perfect spot for all visitors. The cafe is open 7 days a week. Main cafe: Sunday – Thursday 8am – 6pm Friday – Saturday 8am – 8pm Hatch: 8am – 8pm The car park and toilets are open during café hours. Click here to visit their website Parking There is a large, free of charge, car park located right next to the beach. There are spaces reserved for disabled visitors outside the café, but theres no official markings for space size. The public toilets are located in the car park, opposite the cafe. Accessibility With beachside parking, this location is ideal for visitors who find it difficult to walk long distances. There is a wheelchair-accessible ramp leading up to the Bluebird Cafe's outdoor eating area. However, there is a step at the entrance of the cafe. Visitors can choose to order food either from inside the cafe or through the window outside. The beach can be accessed by short stony slopes from the car park, or via steps from the cafe's outdoor dining area. Unfortunately, this makes the beach inaccessible for wheelchair users, as there are no accessible walkways. Nearby beaches such as Bognor Regis, Worthing , and Brighton are much more suitable for visitors who rely on mobility aids. Conclusion Ferring Beach is a peaceful and charming alternative to its busier neighbours . Located in a quiet small town, it provides a perfect setting for a restful day out with family or friends. While it offers some facilities and scenic beauty, visitors with mobility needs may need to consider nearby beaches like Worthing or Brighton, which offer a wider range of accessibility features. Nonetheless, Ferring Beach remains a lovely spot for those seeking tranquillity, coastal walks, and a welcoming atmosphere for all.

The Alpicool C9 Mini is a 12-volt compressor fridge-freezer designed for use in vehicles. With its smart features and compact size, the Alpicool brand has become popular in the motorhome market. It's also quite affordable, with prices starting around £100—though it’s frequently discounted on sites like Amazon. In this tech review , we’ll be taking a close look at the Alpicool C9 Mini fridge-freezer after a month of testing. We’ll explore its specifications, ease of use, and value for money, so you'll know if it’s the right fit for your needs. What's in the Box? Before we dive into the cooler itself, let's take a look at what’s included in the package. It comes with two charging cables—one for mains power and another for 12-volt sockets. The only other item included is the operation manual. Specifications and Dimensions Capacity ‎9 litres Noise Level ‎45 dB Form Factor ‎Portable Colour Black/gray Voltage ‎12/24 Volts (DC) Batteries included/Required ‎No Item Weight ‎6.1 kg User experience Set-up Setting up the cooler was straightforward, as to be expected from a mini fridge. The manual was concise, simple, and easy to understand. App Connecting to the app via Bluetooth was also a seamless experience. Once connected, you can monitor and set the desired temperature, as well as check the status of your leisure battery—making it particularly campervan-friendly. However, since the app requires a Bluetooth connection to function, you can't check the fridge’s status when you're more than 15+ metres away. This limits its usefulness somewhat, but it can still be handy if, for example, the fridge is stored away in a cupboard, and you want to monitor its status remotely. Controls Outside of the app, the Alpicool can be controlled with four buttons, these are: On/off Temperature up Temperature down Settings Press the settings button once to change the cooling mode, and press and hold it to set the battery protection mode. Click here for the instruction manual Construction The Alpicool construction is solid, and the display is bright and easy to read. However, the plastics don’t have the highest-quality feel—which is understandable given the affordable price point. The cooler is definitely up to the task, and I’d have very little concern about damage when throwing it in and out of the car or bumping it around in the boot. Positives Affordable Easy to set-up and use App controls Compact size Battery protection Freeze function Negatives Plastic feel Updated C9PT and NL9 offer more colour options, with improved aesthetics Who is this for? The Alpicool 9C is ideal for those seeking a compact cooler for camping trips, road trips, or use in small campervans where space is limited. Its size is both an advantage and a drawback. While the compact design makes it easy to transport and fit into tight spaces, it also limits the amount of storage available. This makes it more suitable for weekend getaways and solo or couple use, rather than extended trips with the whole family. Conclusion The Alpicool C9 Mini offers an affordable, compact solution for anyone needing a portable fridge-freezer for camping, road trips, or small campervans. Its user-friendly setup, app control, and battery protection features make it a convenient choice road trips. It's worth noting that Alpicool has introduced newer models, such as the C9PT and NL9, which offer more color options and improved aesthetics. Although I don't believe the functionality hasn't had any major updates. Overall, the Alpicool C9 Mini remains a solid option for those seeking a budget-friendly, space-saving cooler—perfect for weekend adventures and short trips. However, for extended use or larger storage needs, you may want to opt for their 12 or 16 litre models.

Welcome to the fifth instalment of our camper conversion series! In this post, we'll be insulating the walls of our 2020 Peugeot Expert. You'll find a step-by-step guide along with helpful tips and tricks for your own conversion project. A full   walkthrough video   is included at the bottom of the page. Tools Used: 10mm thermoacoustic insulation: Link 3 Rolls of Dodo EVO fleece 50mm: Link R eflectix insulation : Link Aluminium tape: Link Measuring tape and pen Scissors Adhesive spray Why did I pick these items? 10mm Thermoacoustic Insulation I initially ordered 10mm-thick insulation so it would fit between the grooves in the van's floor, beneath the plywood flooring. I continued using the same roll for other sections throughout the van. Although thinner options like 7mm or 5mm were available, the slightly thicker insulation will also help to reduce road noise and isn't much more expensive. Evo Fleece Evo fleece is made from recycled plastic bottles, making it both sustainable and cost-effective. It's non-irritant, so it's safe to handle, and it doesn’t absorb moisture, which lowers the risk of mould growth. Thin Reflectix Insulation This was a gift from a family member, and I wasn't initially sure where to use it. When I realised that using the thicker 10mm insulation between the walls and plywood lining would reduce the available space, I decided that a single layer of Reflectix would be a good compromise, even though its R-value is relatively low. Step One: Installing the 10mm Insulation I started by installing the thermoacoustic insulation on the inside of the doors, as well as in the recessed sections of the van's walls. This continued from the wheel arches we began working on in part one of the series, when we were sound deadening the van. Cutting and sticking the insulation wasn't difficult, but it was time-consuming. If you have larger arms, you might find it tricky to reach into the deeper sections of the van's doors. Step Two: Reflectix Before fully covering the upper sections of the walls with thermoacoustic insulation, I first applied thin reflective insulation to the outer areas. This helped to maximise the coverage while also allowing room for the EVO fleece, which will have the greatest impact on temperature regulation. For the install, I sprayed both the walls and the Reflectix with adhesive spray, waited a minute for the adhesive to go tacky, and then secured them together. Tip: It's important to keep the doors open for ventilation while using the spray. Step Three: Finishing 10mm Insulation After installing the Reflectix, I finished installing the 10mm thermoacoustic insulation on top of it in the recessed sections of the van's walls. Next, I covered the seams with aluminium tape to create a fully reflective surface. The tape will also help to smooth out the insulation on the upper sections of the doors, which will be carpet lined later on. I'll be covering this soon in a future update. Step Four: Wire Prep Before we could install the thermofleece, I had to prepare the wires for the roof lights. I cut a length of wire matching the AWG of the LED hub I'll be using for the roof lights and ran it through the walls of the van. Tip: I cut a coat hanger so it could be used as a hook; this made retrieving the wire from inside the van's walls much easier. Although I used some standard wire I had on hand, cables specifically designed for vehicles would be better—they're thicker to prevent damage from vibrations. To avoid unwanted tension, I left plenty of slack so the wire wouldn't be pulled tight. I also wrapped the sections of wire that would be in contact with the metal edges inside the van's walls with protective tape. Step Five: Installing EVO Fleece We filled the cavities in the walls and doors with the EVO fleece. I used the coat hanger again to push the fleece into place, as well as to pull it through the small cavities at the top of the van's walls. After stuffing small pieces of the fleece into the deeper sections of the doors and walls, I found folding the fleece saved time when filling the larger spaces. Where necessary, I applied a small amount of adhesive spray to help secure the wool. Tip:  You don't need to pack the fleece tightly. The air gaps within its structure are essential for optimal performance. What's Next? In the next instalment of our campervan conversion series, we’ll be carpet-lining the exposed metal inside the van. After that, we will be reinstalling the ply lining – this time either painted or varnished. For more van content, visit my YouTube channel here . Click here for a full list of all our campervan conversion posts Full Walkthrough Video:

In this blog post, we'll explore the connection between hypermobility, POTS, and other forms of dysautonomia. We'll examine how your sixth sense (proprioception) influences the nervous system, the physical effects hypermobility can have on blood pressure, and how to determine if you yourself are hypermobile. What is POTS? First, let’s define POTS. Postural Orthostatic Tachycardia Syndrome (POTS) falls under the umbrella of dysautonomia—a group of conditions related to dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system . The term “autonomic” means “self-governing”, referring to the system that controls involuntary functions you don’t consciously think about. This includes breathing, digestion, heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature, sweating, and more. While some individuals with dysautonomia can identify a single cause, many cases result from a combination of multiple factors. For more information about causes of POTS: Click Here POTS and Hypermobility How It Works Proprioception (joint position sense) Proprioception is your body's ability to sense its position and movement in space—often called the “sixth sense.” When a person is hypermobile, this sense can be impaired, leading to decreased awareness of their body's position. For example, someone with inaccurate proprioception might believe their ankle is straight when it’s actually slightly tilted, or think their arm is tucked in when it’s marginally extended. This misperception can result in frequent twisted ankles, bumped elbows, and other injuries. All these bumps and sprains can lead to hypervigilance. Growing up, children with conditions such as joint hypermobility syndrome (JHS) or Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome (EDS) have to learn to pay more attention to their position and surroundings than their peers. This hypervigilance causes us to dial up the autonomic nervous system, particularly the sympathetic nervous system, which is responsible for fight, flight, or freeze responses. Over time, these high levels of adrenaline affect how we react to the world, living with higher rates of anxiety. This constant upregulation of the adrenaline system can also result in an immune system that is constantly on high alert, potentially increasing susceptibility to mast cell activation syndrome and heightened reactivity to vaccines, infections, and stress. As a result, people with hypermobility may be more prone to developing chronic health conditions- such as POTS. Physical Effects of Hypermobility People with hypermobile joints may also have more flexible blood vessels. This can impair the systems responsible for regulating blood pressure when transitioning from a reclined to a standing position. Normally, when a person stands, their blood vessels contract to maintain an appropriate blood pressure; however, in individuals with hypermobility, the structures that control this contraction can be less effective. Instead of contracting, these vessels expand, leading to blood pooling in the legs and away from the heart and other vital organs. This, combined with increased adrenaline levels resulting from proprioceptive dysfunction, can create a cycle of heightened physical responses to activity and stimulation. Many people may notice early signs such as fainting or feeling faint during sports or experiencing tiredness or heaviness when standing for long periods of time. This predisposition often becomes more pronounced during adolescence and young adulthood, influenced by hormonal changes during puberty or increased stress from exams and work as one transitions into adulthood. This is why many seemingly active and healthy young people develop POTS in their late teens and early twenties. Am I Hypermobile? If these traits or experiences sound familiar, or you have a history of being unusually flexible—perhaps excelling in activities like gymnastics, ballet, or dance—it could indicate hypermobility. How to Test for Hypermobility The Beighton score is a test that detects joint hypermobility syndrome. The test uses a nine-point scoring system that measures the flexibility of the following joints: Base of both thumbs Elbows Knees Knuckles of pinky fingers Spine The test consists of two sections: the first involves a physical exam to assess joint flexibility, while the second includes questions about the patient's history of hypermobility and joint pain. Click here for more information about the Beighton test. Note: Around 3-10% of the population is hypermobile. Being hypermobile doesn't automatically mean you have or will develop POTS. It's important to remember hypermobility is just one piece of a larger picture, and each person's condition is unique. Conclusion I hope readers find the information in this post, along with the further reading provided below, helpful (and maybe relatable) in shedding light on some of the underlying factors contributing to POTS. Useful Links: Joint Hypermobility Syndrome: https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/21763-joint-hypermobility-syndrome Ehlers-Danlos syndrome and POTS: https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/ehlers-danlos-syndrome-and-pots Hypermobility and POTS video: https://youtu.be/Cm16Hryi6eE?feature=shared Beighton Score: https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diagnostics/24169-beighton-score

Address : Climping, Atherington, Littlehampton BN17 5RN Climping Beach is a pebble and shingle beach located in West Sussex, England, known for its peaceful rural setting. It has been designated as a biological Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and is also a Local Nature Reserve. Dogs are welcome on the beach all year round, making it a popular spot for dog walkers. However, the area has become neglected over time. Large pebble sea defences now block the views from the car park and make it more difficult to access the beach than in the past. Additionally, all amenities such as toilets and cafes have closed, so visitors should plan accordingly. Parking There is a medium-sized car park with space for around 18 cars. There are no disabled parking spaces. Parking is free. Accessibility The steep slopes and stony surfaces unfortunately make this location unsuitable for visitors with limited mobility. Visitors who struggle to walk long distances but can climb short, steep slopes may manage at this location due to the beachside parking. Conclusion Due to its lack of accessibility features, Climping Beach is unfortunately hard to recommend for visitors with limited mobility. Its isolated location helps keep it quiet and peaceful. If you are able to visit, you'll experience a unique coastline away from crowds, perfect for those seeking tranquillity. Visitors can find more accessible beaches nearby at Bognor Regis or Worthing .

The "Turbo 3 Low Profile Roof Vent" is a wind-driven, budget-friendly roof vent available at prices ranging from £25 to £35. With a height of just under 6 cm, it's an excellent option for potential buyers looking to increase airflow in their van while still fitting under car park barriers. In this review, I will walk through the installation process and share my experience with the vent, before discussing the positives, negatives, and important considerations to keep in mind before making your purchase. A full video walkthrough of the vents installation can be found at the bottom of the page. What's Included? In the box, you will find: Black/white roof vent Three screws to account for different roof thicknesses Fastening bracket Open/close bracket Instruction manual Tools Needed To install the vent, you will need: Drill 80mm hole saw File Screwdriver Measuring tape and pen Footstep/ladder to reach the roof Recommended: Anti-rust paint Sikaflex sealant Ease of Install The easy install of the Turbo 3 roof vent is its main selling point. You only have to drill a single 80mm hole and then fasten it with the correct size screw for your roof thickness. The instruction manual is clear and easy to understand. Quick step guide: Measure position for vent Cut the hole Prep the surface Screw into position Although the manual didn't specify the need for sealant, I applied some during my installation to help to prevent leaks. For a full step-by-step guide: Click here Positives Quick and easy install No wiring needed Very quiet - don't hear it at all when driving Any Complaints? The only complaint I have is that there was a small misshaped piece of plastic in the screw socket, which had to be removed with a Stanley blade. Other than that, the installation was a smooth experience. I also want to note that the online promotional images across multiple websites show the vent as being opened and closed with a push-and-pull lever in some photos. In reality, it operates with a simple twist socket. While this method works fine, it isn't as secure or solid as the full push-pull seal found on other models. Another small note is that the vent spins while driving but requires very strong wind to spin when stationary. Conclusion Overall, I'm very happy with both the install and performance of the Turbo 3 Roof Vent. The simple install and quiet function is exactly what I required. Be sure to check the height of your van before ordering the vent, and add 6cm (the vent is 59.5mm) if you are concerned about height restrictions. Full Walkthrough Video:

Address : Selsey, Chichester PO20 0LJ Location Selsey is a charming seaside town located approximately eight miles south of Chichester in West Sussex. The Environmental Agency has rated the bathing water quality as excellent, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience for beachgoers. With some of the highest average sunshine hours in the UK and crystal-clear water, Selsey provides ample opportunities to enjoy its coastline—whether for a relaxing paddle or simply soaking up the sun. Parking The beachside car park is large, with 75 parking spaces on a level, stony surface. Height limit: 2.10 metres Prices: Summer (8:00 AM - 6:00 PM) - 1 hour: £0.70 - 10 hours: £2.20 Winter - Free to park Accessibility With parking located right next to the beach, visitors can enjoy the sea views without needing to leave their car. The seafront path is flat and easily accessed, suitable for wheelchairs and mobility scooters. The beach itself can be reached via a steep ramp or steps. There are benches along the seafront path. Public toilets are approximately 100 metres from the car park, and they are suitable for disabled visitors. Conclusion With seaside views from the car park and accessible walkways, Selsey Beach is suitable for visitors of all ages and abilities. It offers a peaceful, less crowded environment—ideal for those looking for a relaxing day by the sea. Although the amenities are limited—mainly an ice cream van during the summer months—this contributes to a quieter, more peaceful atmosphere compared to busier beaches nearby. If you're looking for family-friendly attractions or more facilities, East Beach , just 15 minutes away, may better suit your needs. Enjoy your visit to Selsey and experience the beauty of this charming seaside town!

In this beginner's guide, we will share some useful tips and tricks on using the Canon AV-1 for film photography beginners. We will start with its layout and controls while also sharing some useful pointers along the way to help you make the most of your camera. Layout and Controls Top Plate Starting at the left side of the top plate, you have the power check button, iso selector, and film rewind lever. When the black battery check button is pressed, the needle in the viewfinder will rise to indicate the camera has power. On the right side of the top plate, you'll find the selector dial labelled auto/flash/timer/B (bulb mode). When in 'A' for auto mode, you need to press the button in the centre of the dial to unlock it. This will help to avoid changing the settings by accident. The 'B' setting stands for bulb mode, which is used for taking long exposure photographs. Also on the right side of the top plate is the shutter button and its lock to avoid unwanted photos, the frame counter, and the film advance lever. The only other item on the top plate is the hot shoe (for flashes). Bottom plate On the bottom of the camera, you'll find a socket for a system winder/motor drive. This accessory helps advance the film automatically and quickly. You'll also see the film release button (which we'll discuss later when we go over how to unload your film), a tripod mount, and the camera's serial number. Front On the front of the AV-1 camera, you’ll find the battery chamber that holds 6V 4LR44 batteries. Next to the lens, there’s a button for backlit scenes. When you press this button, it increases the exposure by 1.5 stops. This helps ensure your subject is properly lit when they are facing away from a strong light source. Viewfinder and Exposure When looking through the viewfinder, the shutter speed is indicated by a needle on the right side of the frame. The needle moves when the shutter button is lightly pressed down, which helps to avoid wasting battery power while the light meter is not in use. The aperture ring on the lens controls the depth of field, allowing you to create a blurred background. When adjusting the aperture, the needle indicates the corresponding shutter speed, ensuring correct exposure. A lower aperture number lets in more light, making it ideal for low-light conditions while also producing a shallow depth of field with a blurred background. Be sure to avoid slow shutter speeds, as they can cause motion blur. A good rule of thumb is to have a shutter speed equal to or above the focal length of your lens, for example, using a 60th of a second with a 50mm lens. Focusing Like all cameras of its era, the AV-1 is manual focus. Looking through the viewfinder, you will see a split prism; while turning the focus ring on the lens, you should aim to have the image at the centre line up. This can be a little tricky at first, but it gets easier with practice. The focus distance is also indicated on the lens; using this, you can prepare to take the photo before looking through the viewfinder. Loading Film Loading film into the Canon AV-1 is relatively straightforward. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through the process. Steps to Load the Film: Open the Camera Back : Locate the rewind knob on the top-left side of the camera and pull it up. Insert the Film : Take your roll of 35mm film and insert it into the film compartment on the left side of the camera. Make sure the film is orientated correctly; the film should unwind from the bottom of the roll. Thread the Film : Pull the film leader across to the take-up spool on the right side of the camera. Insert the film leader into one of the slots on the take-up spool. Close the Camera Back : Once the film is in place, close the camera back until it clicks into position. Advance the Film : Turn the film advance lever on the top of the camera to advance the film to the first frame. Make sure it is secure by winding the spool lightly by hand. The film rewind lever should spin as the film is pulled through the camera. Set the Film Speed : If using a new roll of film, set the ISO/ASA dial to match the film’s speed (this information is typically found on the film box or canister). This setting is important for getting the correct exposure. Check the Frame Counter : Make sure your frame counter is set to 1. This indicates you're ready to start shooting. The first few times loading film can be a little anxiety-inducing, but after you've put a few rolls through the camera, you'll be more sure of the process. You could also practise with an old roll of unwanted film. Rewinding film When you have finished your role of film, you will feel resistance on the advance lever. Make sure not to force the lever, as this could damage the film. The frame counter at the top of the camera can also help you track when you're nearing the end of a role. On the bottom of the camera body, you will find the film release button. Follow these steps to rewind the film: Press the release button. Turn the rewind lever, following the arrow on the lever's handle, until you notice a change in resistance. Open the back of the camera and retrieve the film canister by lifting the rewind lever. Conclusion In conclusion, the Canon AV-1 is a fantastic choice for both beginners embarking on their photography journey and seasoned shooters who appreciate the simple, user-friendly shooting experience. We hope this guide has provided you with the essential knowledge to familiarise yourself with the camera's layout and controls. As you explore the world of film photography, remember that practice is key—so grab your AV-1, load some film, and start experimenting. Embrace the creativity and excitement that comes with each click of the shutter! Happy shooting! For the original Canon AV-1 manual: Click Here For a review of the Canon AV-1: Click Here